Buttonhole attachment for sewing-machines.



J. JESSEN.

BUTTONHOLB ATTACHMENT PON, SEWING MACHINES.

APPLICATION FILED FELIZ, 11112.

Patented Jan. 19, 1915.

15 SHEETS-SHEET I.

J. JESSEN. BUTTONHQLB ATTACHMENT FOR SEWING MACHINES.

APPLIUATION FILED FEB. l2, 1912.

Patented Jan. 19, 1915.

15 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

/Nz/E/v TOP UIQ/W5S J5@ nf y@ f77 TOP/Vgn? THE NGRRIS PETERS C0,A PHOTO-LITHQ. WASH/Maroni. u. l.

J. JEssBN. BUTTONHOLB ATTACHMENT FOR SEWING MACHINES.

APPLICATION FILED FBBJZ, 1912. Lg Patented Jan. 19,1915.

15 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

YHE NOR/Q15 PETERS CO PHOTO-1.17740, wAsH/NGTCN. l; C.

. JESSEN.

BUTTONHOLE ATTACHMENT FOR SEWING MACHINES.

APPLICATION FILED PEBAIZ, 1912. lpl., Patented Ja11.19,1915.

15 SHEETS-SHEET 4.

W/ TNESS/SS wy J. JESSEN.

BUTTONHULE ATTACHMENT FOR SEWING MACHNES.

APPLICATION FILED pm lz, 1912,

Patented Jan. 19, 1915.

l5 SHEETS*SHEET 5.

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J. JESSBN.

BUTTONHOLE ATTACHMENT FOR SEWING MACHINES.

15 SHEETSSHEET 5.

NYI/5N Tof? 'JQ/W5S JESSE/vr @Y @QJ f? 7- To PNE/5 rifa No/erels PEvERS co.4 PHOTGYLITHO., WASHINGTON. D. c.

J. JESSEN. BUTTONHOLE ATTACHMENT FOR SEWING MACHINES.

APPLICATION FILED PEB.12, 1912.

Patented Jan. 19, 1915.

l5 SHEETSSHEET 7.

IVI@ 7C /nfz//S/Yop l JAMES MESSE/Y EY l 0 d D vw/5F fr0/Wvg? )f77/riss w, 99%? UA1/F '11E MORRIS PETERS co` PHOTO-LUMC WASHHJU 70N. n c

J. JESSEN. BUTTONHOLE ATTACHMENT POE, SEWING MACHINES.

l5 SHEETS-SHEET 8,

/m/f/Y To@ Jq/WES 'JESSE/Y BY @Ax/ W y Hrrof/Yfys THE MORRIS PETERS co PHoc LiTHo WASHfNL.' ron'. D C

J. JESSEN. BUTTONHOLB ATTAGHMENT POR SEWING MACHINES.

APILIGATION FILED FEB. 12, 1912. Lqh Patented Jan.19,1915.

/Nl/E/Y T JAMES dfssg/r 6%@ fz@ /677- To @Aft-nig( .f mm Lum) wASHfNuIDM n. C,

l J. JBSSEN. BUTTONHOLE ATTACHMENT FOR SEWING MACHINES.

APPLICATION FILED FEB. 12, 1012.

Patented J an. 19, 1915.

l5 SHEETS-SHEET l0.

if By MN, D C

J. JESSEN. BUTTONHOLE ATTACHMENT POR SEWING IIIAGHINESt APPLICATION FILED I'EB.12, 1912. l, 125,334.

/44 Fia/l )M7-NESS s I /N//E/frop 10.5.1 LIE/7755 JESSE/y fm@ @@M @55M f7 T70 PNEVS.

Patented Jan. 19, 1915.

15 SHEETS-SHEET 11.

J. JESSEN. BUTTONHOLE ATTACHMENT POR SEWING MACHINES.

APPLICATION FILED FBB.12,1912.

Ll, Patented Jan.19,1915.

15 SHBETSSHEET 124 F'IG. /2

/Nz/E/Y TOP JH/m55 MESSE/vf By W rrop/w YS J. JESSEN. BUTTONHOLE'ATTAGHMENT POR SEWING MACHINES.

APPLICATION FILED FEB. 12, 1912.

Patented Jan. 19, 1915.

15 SHEETS-SHEET 13.

J. JESSEN. BUTTONHOLE ATTACHMENT FOR SEWING MACHINES. APPLICATION FILED H1342. 1912.

1,125,334. Patented Jan.19,1915.

15 SHEETS-SHEET 14.

///T/vfsS-S 4/ /M/E/YTOR w 7W fa/mis L/fSSE/v V l' BY HTToP/VEYS THE NORRIS PETERS CO.. PHOTO-LITHO.. WASHING TON. D. C.

J. JESSEN.

BUTTONHOLE ATTACHMENT FOR SEWING MACHINES.

APPLICATION FILED PEB.12, 1912.

Pateted Jau. 19, 1915;

15 SHEETS-SHEET 15,

IMT/V555 5 .Il STATES ATNT OFFIE.

JAMES JESSEN, OF MINNEAPOLIS, MINNESOTA, ASSIGNOR TO JESSEN BUTTON-HOLE MACHINE COMPANY, OF MINNEAPOLIS, MINNESOTA, A CORPORATION.

BUTTONI-IOLE ATTACHMENT FOR SEWING-MACHINES.

Application led IFebruary 12, 1912.

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, JAMES J EssnN, a citizen of the United States, of Minneapolis, Hennepin county, Minnesota, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Buttonhole Attachments for Sewing-Wlachines, of which the following is a specification.

The primary object of my invention is to provide an attachment to a sewing machine for stitching the eyelet at the end of a button-hole without turning the goods or the needle.

A further object is to provide an attachment which will stitch an ordinary straight button-hole or one having an eyelet of any suitable radius.

A further object is to provide an attachment capable of application to any style of sewing machine and needles of varying stroke.

Other objects of the invention will appear from the following detailed description.

rl`he invention consists generally in means for stitching the button-hole eyelet with the stitches extending radially with respect to the eyelet.

Further the invention consists in means for stitching a button-hole eyelet of any suitable diameter and any desired number of stitches in the arc of the eyelet.

Further the invention consists in means for changing the bight of the stitches at the sides of the button-hole without changing the space between the inner ends of the opposite stitches.

Further the invention consists in various constructions and combinations, all as hereafter described and particularly pointed out in the claims.

In the accompanying drawings forming part of this specilication, Figure 1 is a vertical sectional view of a button-hole attachment for sewing machines embodying my invention, Fig. 2 is a similar view, taken on the section line n n of Fig. 13, Fig. 3 is a detail view of the rocker, showing its man` ner of engagement with the lugs on the plate through which the movement of the rocker is imparted to the mechanism of the attachment, Figs. 4 and 5 are detail views illustrating the means connecting the rocker shaft with the needle bar to allow the movement of the shaft to be accommodated to the Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented J an. 19, 19115.

serial No. 676,980.

stroke of the needle, Fig. 6 is a view, with the cover removed, on the section line a-a of Fig. 1, Fig. 621 is a detail view illustrating the position assumed by the mechanism when the clamp plates are thrown out to form the straight line of stitches at the beginning of the eyelet, Fig. 7 is a sectional view on the line b-Z) of Fig. 1, Fig. 7a is a detail perspective View, illustrating the relative positions of the feed plate and the oscillating plate in which the feed screw is mounted, and the position of the parts prior to the stitching of the bar at the end of the button-hole, Fig. 7b is a sectional view on the line Z-Z of Fig. 10, Fig. 7C is a sectional view on the line m-m of Fig. 7, Fig. 8 is a similar view, showing the mechanism for imparting a vibratory movement to the clamp plates, Fig. 3a is a detail view of one of the plates utilized in the movement of the clamp plates preparatory to stitching the row of stitches at the beginning of the eyelet, Fig. 9 is a similar view, showing a portion of the mechanism illustrated in Fig. 8 removed, Fig. 9a is a detail sectional view, showing the crank pin at the limit of its upward stroke, Fig. 9b is a similar view, showing the crank pin at the limit of its downward stroke, Fig. 10 is a bottom view of the attachment, Fig. 11 is a horizontal sectional view taken on the line g/-y of Fig. 1, Fig. 12 is a vertical sectional view on the line www of Fig. 1, Fig. 12a is a detail sectional view showing the means for shifting the fulcrum of the lever between the rack bars, through the operation of which the mutilated pinion is rotated, Fig. 12b is a perspective view of one of the rack bars and the bar which controls the feed screw clutch, Fig. 13 is a bottom view of the machine with the base plate removed, showing the clamp vibrating plate and its connections, Fig. 14 is a similar view with some of the parts removed, Fig. 15 is a view corresponding to Figs. 13 and 14, with the clamp vibrating plate removed, showing a portion of the operating mechanism, Fig. 15a is a detail view showing the mechanism for controlling the formation of the eyelet at the end of the button-hole, Fig. 16 is a diagram of the button-'hole stitches. showing the straight bar at one end of the button-hole and the eyelet stitches at the other end radiating from the center of the eyelet.

In the drawing, 2 represents the base or frame of the attachment, provided with a horizontal arm 3. This base and arm are made of metal, preferably cast in one piece. In the arm 3 a horizontal rock shaft 4 is journaled. A rocker arm 5 is pivoted at 6 on the end of the arm 3 and has a forked end 7 to engage the needle bar. It is also provided with a longitudinal slot 8. An angle plate 9 has a sliding pivotal connection at one end in the slot 8 and is provided at its other end with a slot 10 that is adapted to receive the flattened end of the rock shaft 4 and is held in place thereon by a lock nut 11. At the opposite end of the rock shaft 4 is a stationary plate 12, secured to the frame of the machine, through which plate the rock shaft extends and `is provided with a rocker 13 having arms 14 provided with contact surfaces 15 and 16.

17 is a plate having a movement in a circumscribed path corresponding substantially in its function to the plate shown and described in Letters Patent of the United States No. 993,070, issued to me May 23, 1911. This plate is provided with inwardly projecting lugs 18 with which the contact surfaces l5 and 16 engage in the operation of the rocker.

In attaching the device to a sewing machine, the rocker is moved until one of the surfaces 15 is in engagement with a lug and the angle plate 9 is then adjusted on the rock shaft until the forked end of the arm 5 is in engagement with the needle bar at the upper end of the stroke of the needle. The.

movement of the rocker will then be so timed that it will accommodate itself to the stroke of the needle of the machine to which the attachment is applied, the arms 14 of the rocker slipping by their lugs after contacting therewith to compensate far variation in the stroke of the needle of one machine from that of the needle of another machine. I am thus able to easily and quickly adapt the attachment to sewing machines of varying stroke.

A plate 19 is carried by the plate 17 and has a vertical movement vbetween the flanges 20 on the plate 12. A pivot pin 21 projects outwardly from the plate 19 and is adapted to enter a socket 22 provided in an arm 23. (See Figs. 8 and 9). A plate 24 has a slot 25 therein to receive a pin 26 that is provided on its inner end with an anti-friction roller 27, the outer end of said pin being threaded to receive an adjusting and tightening nut 28. (See Figs. 1, 6, 8 and 9). The arm 23 has a slot 29 therein to receive the anti-friction roller 27, said roller forming a fulcrum for the arm 23, and is adjustable back and forth in said arm to increase or decrease the distance between the fulcrum and the pin 22 and regulate the stroke or throw of the arm. (See Figs. 8 and 9). The slot 25 in the plate 24 allows the adjustment of the pin 26 or the fulcrum of the arm 23 to vary the stroke of the arm.

A stud 30 is mounted in the machine frame and depends vertically near one end of the arm 23 and carries a mutilated pinion 31 which is adapted to slide vertically on said stud and also rotate in a semi-circular path thereon. A spool 32 is provided at the upper end of the mutilated pinion and a block 33 is fitted to slide horizontally between the flanges of said spool and is pivotally connected at 34 with one end of the arm 23, said` block sliding back and forth between the flanges of the spool and accommodating itself to the stroke of said arm. rlhe mutilated pinion is adapted to mesh with the teeth of a horizontal rack bar 35, the teeth of the pinion being of suliicient length to allow vertical movement of the pinion without becoming disengaged from the teeth of the rack bar, so that lengthwise movement of the rack bar at any point in the vertical stroke of the pinion will rotate the pinion. (See Figs. 6, 8 and 9). At the lower end of the pinion is a rigidly mounted, laterally projecting arm 36and fixed in the outer end of this arm is a depending pin 37. This pin is arranged at an angle to the aXis of the stud 30, with its lower end intersecting the aXis of said stud, if eX- tended, and vertically slidable in a suitable bearing, such as a ball 38 carried by a socket 39. The ball moves freely in said socket to accommodate itself to the different positions of the arm 36 without cramping or binding the pin 37. (See Figs. 6, 8 and 9). The socket 39 is mounted on a transverse plate 40 and it is evident that when the pinion 31 is raised and lowered by the operation of the arm 23, that the vertical movement of the pin` 37 will cause a longitudinal reciprocating movement ofthe plate 40, as indicated in Figs. 8 and 9. Obviously, the degree of reciprocation of the plate 40 will depend upon the length of stroke of the arm 23, and as this stroke can be easily varied by the adjustment of the fulcrum pin 26, I am able to regulate to a nicety the reciprocation of the plate 40. One end of the plate 40 projects through a slot 41 *in the base of the attachment and its opposite end has a longitudinal' slot 42 therein to receive a guiding pin 43 that is mounted in the base of the attachment. A lug 44 having curved bearing surfaces 44 is fastened on the plate 40 and fits within a longitudinal slot 45 in the lower clamp plate 46, (see Fig. 14), and said clamp plate has a longitudinal slot 47 to receive a lug 48 having curved bearing surfaces 49 which contact with the walls of the slot 47 and form a fulcrum on which the clamp plate46 vibrates. (See Fig. 14,).

"Anupper clamp `plate isipivot`ed at 51 onabraclret` 51 that iscarried by the lower clamp plate, and has a gripper device 52 which cooperates with the outer end `ofthe lower clamp plate togrip the goods during y the button -hole stitching operation.V A

spring 53 normallyholds the upper clamp l plate in its raised position and a camle'ver 5a is provided for forcing said upper clamp plate downwardly against the tension of said spring. A bottom cover plate 55 hasan lextension 56 which" forinsal work plate `beneath "the lower clamp plate. (See Fig. 2.)

` ,By means lof the foregoing described mechanism, it is evident that the rocking of.

the shaft 4l will, through its connections, vibrate theclainp plates and the adjustment of the arm 23 on its fulcruin will determine the extent ofthe vibration and thereby regulate the bi ght of the button-hole stitches.

also secured on said shaft. A spring 6a is provided within the sleeve 60 inclosing the lfio Vshaft 61 and normally tends to hold the feed wheel in the path of lugs 65 provided on the lower end ofthe plate 17, said lugs having the functions of the corresponding. lugs of those which engage the feed wheel in my patent above `referred to.

A screw G6 is loosely mounted on the shaft 61 and has a clutch G7 adapted to engage another clutch member 63 on thelinner end of the hub of the' disk 63, so that when the clutch members are in` mesh with one another the revolution of the shaft will revolve the screw and the'disk 63.` The middle portion `ofthe shaft 61 is provided with a series of teeth G9- adapted vto mesh with the teeth ofa pinion carried `.by a pivoted plate 71 and normally held in "engagement with the teeth on the shaft byfa spring 7 2. (See Figs. 1 and 11'.) A Irack bar 73 is adapted to mesh with 'the pinion" 70 andA is disposed transversely with respect to the shaft G1 parallel, substantially, with lthe rack bar 35. (See Figs. 11 and 12.) A lever 74: is pivoted at one end onl the rack bar 35 and has a longitudinal slot inits opposite end that is adapted to receive ai pin 76 provided Within a recess 7 7 inthe edge of the bar 73. The

link 7-lfalso has a longitudinal slot 78 'thatl is adapted to receive a verticalpin 79, which has'a threaded `upper `end adjustable in a slot 30 provided in a plate 81 and locked in said slot by means of a locking sleeve 82. The pin 79formsthe fiilcrum of the lever Pfand the adjustment of the pin back and forth in theslot 7 Sregulates vthe length of the stroke ofthe rack bar 73 and the lever 74, and the speedof the rack bar 35. The rack bar 35fis provided with a notch 83, having a beveled end wall 3l `and said racl; bar also has a notch 35 with one square end wall andits opposite wall provided with a beveled iippeijpoition 33". A bar` 86 is arranged lengthwise of the shaft 6l and above the same and has a notch 37 at one end to receive the dislr G3,- the opposite end of the bar 86 bearing on the edge of the rack bar and sliding thereon in the lengthwise movement of the rack bar. The bar 86 is provided on oneside with a cam lug S8 having a beveled surface that is adapted to engage the `pivotedplate 71 and push it outwardly on its pivot a sufficient distance to disengage the teeth ofthe `pinion 70 from the teeth 69 of the shaft, thereby arresting further lengthwise movement of the rack bar 73. This disengagement of the pinion` from the operating teethof the shaft takes place when the bar35, having moved a meas-` ured distance, allows the end of the bar 36 to drop into one of the notches S3 or 85, said bar 36 being held with a yielding pressure against the edge ofthe bar 35 by the tension of the spring '34, as will be clearly understood upon reference to Figs. 1 and 11. Then the bar 86 is riding on the edge of the. bar 35, as shown in 1l, and the pinion isdriven by the teeth of the shaft 61, it is evident that movement of the bar 7 3will, through its lever connection, more the bar 35 lengthwise in the opposite direction.

The movement of the bai' 73 is uniform, being positively driven from the revolving shaft, but the speed of the bar depends upon the position of the pin 79 in the slot 73. lf the pin is near the pivot of the lever 74 the movement of the bar 35 will be slower and if the pin 79 is moved toward the middle portion of the slot 73 the bar 35 will travel faster during'- the stroke of the bar 73. The movement of the bar 35 willrotate the pinion 31 and `swing the arm 36 to dew scribe an arc and cause the clamp plate and the goods held thereby to describe a similar arc.' The distance between the stitches in the curved portion of the eyelet is controlled by the movement of the bar 35 and the pinion. lf these parts move slowly it is evident. that the stitches will be `nearer to-` gether than if they move rapidly, and as the distance between the stitches should be substantially the same forany radius of the eyelet, I provide a mechanism controlled by the movement ofthe pin 79-which, at the time the said pin is adjusted to regulate the speed of the bar 35, will also adjust the mechanism for regulating the radius of the' eyelet. This radius regulating mechanism, referring to Figs; 13 and 15, consistsof a plate 89 pivoted at 90 on the base ofthe machine and having a slot 91 that is adapted to receive the lower end of the pin 79. rlfhe slot 80 in the plate 81 and the slot 78 in the bar 741. must necessarily be parallel ing its connections, but in order that adjustnient of the plate 89 may be obtained, it is evident that the slot 91- must be at an angle with respect to the slot 80 `so that when the lpin 79 is moved back and forth .in the slot 7 Sto change the speed ofthe rack bar 35, the plate 89 will be swung on its pivot tov change the position of the arm 92, which, is pivotally connected to one end ofthe plate 89 and has an end 93 which projects into a slot 94 providedin a shifter plate 9.5 carried by the `feed plate 96. A slot 97 forms an angular continuation of the slot 94 in the plate 95and the position of the arm 92 with respect to this slot. 97 determines the radius l .ofthe eyelet. If the arm 92 is set so that.y 2-

the screw reversing mechanism will be tripped beforethe arm enters the slot 97,

'v no eyelet will be formed at the end of the buttonhole, while if the bar is set to enter the slot 97 the clamp plates will swing outwarclly and form a series of stitches in a straight line at an angle to the side stitches Iof the button-hole. The distance the bar enters the slot 97 will regulate the distance the row of stitches are formed at an angle tothe 1' side stitches of the button-hole and the .length of the arc of the eyelet. Then the lug 93l enters the slot 97 the arm 92 will be oscillated to move the plate 126 to the position indicated by dotted lines in Fig. 8, and shift the. plate 23 and the oblique pin 37 a-ndf throw the clamp plate to form the stitches at an angle to the row of stitches at the side of the button-hole. pinion have a uniform stroke, while the speed of the rack bar is regulated by the adjustment of the arm 92,. This speed will be commensurate with the radius of the eyelet and the number. of stitches to a` given movement of the goods. If the speed of the raek bar is increased, the pinion will be ro- *tated at a corresponding increaseand the stitches will be formed farther apart in the goods. On the other hand, if the speed of the rack bar is decreased, the stitches will I am able, therefore, by increasing or decreasing the speed of thek rack bar pinion to adapt the machine for i ystitchingY eyelets of different sizes without changing the spaces between the stitches. In other words, the arc yof the eyelet may be increased or decreased and still maintain a uniform spacing of the stitches. The position ofthe stitches at the end ofthe buttoni e holewith respect to the side stitches will be governed by the angle 0f the Slot 97 with The rack bar 35 and the hole will correspond, Vasf-shown in Fig. 14, e.

to. the angle Aofthe slot 97, as` shown in Fig-:13. C a

As shown in the drawing, the stitches of the eyelet, insteadof being formed on a curved kcontinuation of the side row of stitches, are radially arranged with respect lto the center of the eyelet. This is due to the factvv that'. the oblique pinxswings onfthe f arcof a circlewhile 'the eyelet stitches. are being formed.`

A plate 98 is mounted to slide on theplate and has a lug 99` which engages the feed screw 6G, the revolution of the screw loperating tomove the lug 99 back and forth there'- on in the movement of the machine. (See Fig. 1). Apin 100. is carried by the plate 9.8 and. a plate 101 is pivoted atI 102 on they frame of the machine and has a pivotal connection atits opposite end with the feed.v

plate 96. while a link 104` connectsv the lplate 1,01 withvthe pin 100 so that the movement. ofthev plate 98 back and forth on'V the screw operates to reciprocate the feed' plate and the clamp plates and feed the vgoods during the stitching operation. (See Fig..15.).

As heretofore stated, the plate 57 has one end pivoted at, 58` and its opposite end is adapted to move laterally in a guide-way 105 provided inthe base lof' the machine. (See Fig-1 111). Slides 106 and 107 are mounted on the plate 57' and have beveled surfaces 108 and 109, the frame being normally held in. yielding engagementwith a corresponding;V stationary surface. 110 by means of=a spring 111. which isV preferably interposed between the slides. (See Fig. 13:). rlhe beveled surface 109 is'engaged by a tooth` 112y on atriplever113: that is pivoted on the plate 57 and has lugs 114 and 115 which are alternately engaged'v by dependingV lugsy 1161- on the; plate 17; (See Figs. 8, 9, and 13.) `This alternate engagement. ofthe lugs. shifts the beveled surface 108 from one sidel off the,l surface 110 to the other and changes the position ofthe plate 57 andthe feed: wheeL to drive the screw'in the other direction, all as shownand described with reference to my patentv above referred to.l The movement of the trip lever 113Y to `set it in Vposition to' be engaged by the lugs 116 is accomplished by contact of the shifter plate. 95 with-said: lever when the plate is moving in oneldirection and by performed bya different mechanism in Iny;

former patent.

It# will'.A be.- noted from and. examination of` I Fig.` 13 that the trip lever has been struck by the arm 101 and shifted, the pressureK of the slide 107 on the tooth of the trip lever operating to swing the end of the trip lever struck by the arm 101 out of engagement with said arm as soon as the tooth 112 has moved past the apex of the beveled surface 109. The plate 98 carries a standard 117 which encircles the sleeve 60 and is movable back and forth with the plate 98. (See Fig. 1). An arm 118 is carried bv the standard 117 and extends parallel with the feed screw in position to engage the pivoted plate 71 and force it backwardly against the tension of its spring and disengage the pinion 70 from thel teeth 69. (See Fig. 1). This disengagement of the pinion from its operating teeth takes place during the stitching of the straight bar at one end of the button-hole and at that time the rack bar 73 will be stationary and the clamp plates will be vibrated in the ordinary way to form a straight row of stitches. Prior tothe completion of the travel of the standard 117 toward the right in Fig. 1, it will Contact with a beveled surface on a shoulder 119 provided on the lower edge of the bar 86 and lift this bar from the lower portion of the square notch 85 in the bar 35 into the upper part that is provided with the beveled end surface 83, the plate 57 to be shifted from the position shown in Fig. 13 to the position shown in Fig. 11, preparatory to the stitching of the beveled end of the button-hole. The end of the bar 86 moves vertically in a slot 120 provided in the tongue '39 and is yieldingly held in a depressed position by a spring 121. (See Fig. 1).

Referring to Figs. 13 and 14, 122 is an arm pivotally connected at one end to a strap 123 that is loosely mounted around the socket 39 on the plate 40. The opposite end of the arm 122 is pivotally connected at 124 with the lower clamp plate. A link 125 pivotally connects the `middle portion of the arm 122 with the pin 100. During the vibration of the clamp plates in stitching the sides of the button-hole, the arm 122 has no function other than feeding the clamp plate longitudinally of the button-hole, the vibrating movement being performed entirely by the reciprocation of the plate 40. As soon, however, as the pinion 31 begins its rotation to swing the plate 40 in the are of a circle for the stitching of the curved portion cf the eyelet, the plate 122 will operate to impart to the clamp plate the circular movenient of the plate 40. When the pinion 31 has completed its semi-rotation and the curved portion of the eyelet has been stitched7 the plate 40 will again resume its functions of a merely vibratory movement for the stitching of the other side of the button-hole.

Referring to Fig. 8, 126 is a plate arranged beneath the arm 23 and provided with inclined slots 127 and 128 to receive stationary lugs 129 and 130 on the flanges 20. The plate 126 is also provided with lugs 131 that are adapted to enter slots 132 provided in the plate 24. (See Figs. 6 and 7). One end of the plate 126 has a notch 133 therein to receive the arm 92. This arm, as will appear from the foregoing description, is normally stationary after being once adjusted, unless its adjustment causes it to enter the slot 97, in which case the arm will be oscillated to move the plate 126 endwise for the purpose hereinafter specified. A depending arm 134 is provided at its upper end with a longitudinal slot 135 adapted to receive a stationary pin 136 mounted in the frame of the machine. This slot is inclined to allow vertical and edgewise movement of the arm. The lower portion of the arm 134 has an inclined slot 137 therein to receive the outer end ofthe lug 130, said lug operating to lift the arm 134 during its edgewise movement. The lower portion of the arm 134 has an opening 138 therein to receive a lug 139 on the lower edge of the plate 24, said lug operating to move the arm 134 edgewise simultaneously with its upward movement through its engagement with the lug 130. A spring 140 bears on the top of the plate 134 and holds it down with a yielding pressure. A compression spring 141 is mounted on the plate 24 and the frame of the machine and tends to force said plate 24 and its connections toward the left, as indicated in Figs. 6 and 7. The lower end of the arm 134 has a foot piece 142 that is adapted to bear on the edge of the feed plate 96, the feed plate sliding thereon during the operation of stitching the sides of the button-hole.

A plate 143 is provided, having a narrow slot 144 to receive the lower end of the arm 134. This slot is of suiiicient length to allow the arm 134 to drop ofl the shoulder 145 provided on the feed plate, preparatory to stitching a straight bar at the end of the button-hole. The plate 143 has slots 146 therein to receive screws 147 on which said plate is slidable, being actuated through a slot and pin connection with the plate 57. After the arm 134 drops off the shoulder 145 it will be lifted a sufficient distance to clear the feed plate and when the plate 57 is shifted at the end of the button-hole the plate 143 will be moved edgewise to carry the arm 134 to a point above the shoulder of the feed plate, so that said arm will be in position to drop down again behind the feed plate in the position indicated by full lines in Fig. 7a, when the'bar 35 is pushed back into the machine preparatory to stitching another button-hole. A pin 149 is slidable lengthwise through a stud 150 and has its 

